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Journal ARS Article |
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Vol. 73: No. 1: Year 2019 |
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The Azaleas of Stagecoach Hill, Trinidad, CA Rick Edwards (Modified from Azalea Blooms, the Sept. 2018 newsletter of the ARS Azalea chapter) I grew up in California and my family spent most weekends during the summers camping in the Sierra Nevada Mountains near Placerville, CA. As a kid, my brothers and I spent our time chasing lizards and romping up and down Slab Creek. My mother on the other hand cherished the countless azaleas blooming along the banks of the creek. She is 86 now and doing just fine here in the Missouri Ozarks. But she stills reminisces and talks much about the azaleas. She knew they weren't honeysuckles, but didn't know what they were, so she called them "those wild honeysuckles." Science has discovered one of the strongest triggers for memories is smell. Our nose helps us remember when our brain just can't. She closes her eyes and goes on about the fragrance, "so pleasant and sweet, but not overpowering, and with a hint of honeysuckle, sent straight from Heaven!" I gotta tell ya, that didn't interest this little kid at the time! But now, as a grown-up, civilized, reasoning adult, listening to her remember out loud, compels me to close my eyes too...and remember. It was such a grand time in my life, but I remember the azaleas too. Even as a kid, there were those rare times when we sat on a rock to warm up (those snow melt creeks were very cold even in August!). I close my eyes and I can smell those heavenly scents. The fragrance was so captivating that even us boys would take time to agree with mom as she "carried on" about those white and yellow flowers down at the creek. I live in southwest Missouri not far as the crow flies from Branson. I have several azaleas growing on the east side of the house and lots in pots under the big red oak sharing company with the dogwood and hostas. Azaleas are one of my favorite plants of all. But I enjoy those with a fragrance most. So doing a little research, I found that R. austrinum is truly a scent from heaven. I have sought out those fragrant hybrids and tried to get some of the species in my collection. Taking advantage of the internet, I found Ronnie Palmer (Azalea Hills Nursery, White Hall, AR) and Earl Sommerville. Both gentlemen have been very kind and gracious to me. I have purchased several from Ronnie and Earl has shared his wisdom, experience and encouragement in my pursuits on the "Azalea Trail." Earl encouraged me to contact Mitch Mortvedt (Woodland Wonders Nursery, Gilbert, AR) to help with identification of a Missouri native, R. prinophyllum. He also has been very kind, gracious, generous and just a great guy! I have also added some of his achievements to my little collection. All of this leads up to Stagecoach Hill. I found a website about Stagecoach Hill and the multi colored azaleas there, and that was it. All I had ever seen were white and yellow, so I had to see this western azalea for myself. I'm from Missouri now, and it ain't called the "show me state" for nothin'! So, it took two years of planning and coordinating with the rest of my family for us to go to the West Coast. There is only one species of azalea on the west coast of America - Rhododendron occidentale, the western azalea. I was dazzled by the pinks, rose, and almost red flowers that I saw. I knew of a simple smooth flower with entire margins on the lobes of the corolla. With just a tad bit more research and I was seeing yellows! There were doubles, ruffles, and little stars. Some look fairly smooth and flat, but others looked like crepe paper. Now when you consider all the incredible variations, hybrids, scents and non-scents, found in the eastern and particularly southeast states, what's the big deal? Well, it's not too hard to appreciate and even expect to see quite a display when you put three or even five compatible species in one region. When you play the shell game of spin the bottle, "shazzam," you can't help but have quite a show. But that isn't the case out west. There are at least 50 different variations in form, structure, colors and patterns in just the flowers of R. occidentale, all in one single species, yet presenting a range and number of specific identifiable variants of flowers that rivals the entirety of discovered flower variations in the entire eastern United States. In addition, there is some very distinct variation in pigmentation in the shoots and mature leaves, in addition to extreme differences in fall foliage colors. Stagecoach Hill Nature Preserve is home to the greatest number of distinct and different variations in flowers than any other known location. It's a regular "honey hole," the jack pot, a truly rainbow selection and presentation of R. occidentale genetics! So let's take a look. It was a long drive up from Ft. Bragg to Stagecoach Hill - about seven hours, but I confess, we did take a few hikes through the redwoods, and of course a drive through one redwood in particular, along the way!
We arrived at Stagecoach Hill late in the afternoon. It covers more than 40 acres (16 ha) on a west facing hillside above Big Lagoon and the Pacific Ocean. I again confess, I wasn't thinking about pictures or a presentation. I was worse than any kid turned loose in Willy Wonka's "Chocolate Factory." It did not disappoint! You come to the "T" at Kane Road, and there is the sign with an arrow pointing to the left. You follow the dirt road for about a quarter mile (400 m) and then it just opens up. You are driving right through the middle of the azaleas. They are on both sides of the road - not some skimpy little bushes but a whole lot of big ones. Some of these suckers are 10-15 feet (3-4.5 m) tall and up to 25 feet (7.6 m) across. It is a dazzling display of pink and gold shades. On a single azalea, there might be more than a thousand flowers open with darker buds spread throughout, like so much pepper on an over-easy egg! WOW! It was just so dazzling and over-whelming, that I forgot to stop the van and take some pictures - honest!
I will settle down now and get really focused, and show photos of Stagecoach Hill. The trail starts out in a grove of tall Douglas firs. Many are over 100 ft (31 m). We don't see trees that tall in Missouri. Along the trail there are mosses, ferns, fungi, Pacific trilliums (Trillium ovatum) and huge banana slugs. It's a short five minute walk and then you abruptly break into the open azalea savannah. You are looking down the hill with the ocean beyond in clear view. Coming from the shadows of the firs, it's bright and beautiful. The trail continues to the left, but the savannah and azaleas stretch down the hill out of sight and both to the left and right. The trail is a loop. Although it does meander a wee bit, it keeps veering back to the left.
As you follow the trail, there are azaleas crawling low on the ground to over 15 feet (4.5 m) tall. There are at least half a dozen variants along the trail. There are forget-me-nots, foxgloves, iris and columbines. There are at least three different ferns and some of those ferns are six feet (1.8 m) tall, again not what we are used to seeing in Missouri. We were also dazzled by bright orange Allen's hummingbird (Selasphorus sasin) as big as some of the sparrows we have back home, diving and screeching as two males fought for territory. There is something for everyone to see and enjoy. The whole trail can be walked at a leisurely pace in 30 minutes, and there is a bench about ¾ way through the savannah to rest or just sit and take it all in.
That is the trail. However, if you want to truly see the incredible diversity and really experience Stagecoach Hill azaleas, you have to plunge into the savannah. It is not a meadow full of azaleas. The grasses, brambles, other shrubs and vines are from waist high to well above Lebron James' head - and so are the azaleas. You have to "wade" from one azalea to another. Although they look tame and domesticated from the trail, they are not! What appeared to be a five foot (1.5 m) shrub turns out to be ten ft (three m) tall and 20 feet (six m) across. Each azalea is like an island in this sea of greenery, but that is the amazing thing. At a distance they all look kind of pink and blurry but when you get up close, they each present their own special look. I didn't have sense enough to follow the trail. I plunged headlong into my "dream come true," and I found myself flat on the ground. I wrestled my way back up and just looked. I thought "no one's going to believe this." WOW! I present some of the variations I saw in an area of about half an acre (0.2 ha). I'm not kidding. The azaleas go on around the hill and down the hill all the way to the ocean, well over 40 acres (16.2 ha). Take time to see the buds, flowers and foliage. This is all R. occidentale - one single species, but what a set of genes. Take that Calvin Klein!
All things must come to an end, and it was getting very close to dark. But I couldn't pass up another picture or three, and I'm down on my knees doing my thing. Fifteen minutes later, as we passed the last azalea, my oldest daughter hollers, "Look at that bear!" Sure enough, there was about a 300 pound (136 kg) black bear. No "king of the grizzlies" but it was a full grown adult black bear just the same! Next time, I'm gonna wear a bell so the bruins will know there's a ding-a-ling in the azalea patch and for sure leave me alone! It's a long way out there, 2500 miles (4180 km) one way for me, but it was worth it! I plan on returning, and intend to spend an entire day just photographing. The peak bloom is the first two weeks in June. They don't freeze due to the nearby ocean, and summer temps rarely hit 80º F (27º C) and not that hot most years. Individuals start blooming in February and stragglers go into September - just love those genetics! R. occidentale ranges from southern Oregon to San Diego and their habitats vary from very hot dry summers with temps in the 90ºs (32º C) down south, to winters of -30º F (-34º C) and five to ten feet (1.5-3 m) of snow at elevation over 6000 feet (1828 m) in the Sierra Nevada, and it's all the same species!
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